A fairly large, semi-arboreal snake, the Blue Beauty Snake is found throughout much of Vietnam. It, therefore, has the common name “Vietnam Blue Beauty”. This species lives in forests, rivers, and caves in subtropical and tropical environments. Their favorite food, rodents, makes human developments prime breeding grounds for them.
In this blue beauty snake care guide, I am going to describe everything you need to know about this wonderful snake.
Blue Beauty Snake Species Profile
It is not uncommon to find specimens that are 8 to 9 feet long, but the average length is 6 to 7 feet. They have an amazing coloration in the form of dark blue, steel blue, or sky blue. A band may run along the length of the vertebral column from the middle of the body to the tail. Dark or black horizontal stripes along the eyes give them their elongated appearance. The birds stay in branches during the day and at night (diurnal and nocturnal) and are active both day and night.
There is a wide range of temperaments among them, from very docile to very aggressive. Whenever the specimen is surprised or feels threatened, even the most docile specimen can become aggressive. To warn of being cornered or threatened, they shake their tail. The bite of these non-venomous snakes can be very painful, despite the fact that they are non-venomous.
In addition to stalking its prey, the Blue Beauty also immobilizes them with several coils that crush their bones. Preying primarily on rodents, they are also capable of eating other small mammals.
It is rumored that Blue Beauties can be nervous snakes, but they can also be very docile and charming pets with regular handling. Additionally, they’re diurnal (opposed to nocturnal) and most active during the day, which is a refreshing change from the more rarely seen nocturnal snakes.
Blue Beauty Snake Care Guide
If you have a striking blue beauty snake as a pet, you should take excellent care of it. This is a common type of snake, so there are many different types of breeding, feeding, and housing options. This article will give you advice about caring for your blue beauty snake.
From thick forests to agricultural fields, Blue Beauty Snakes can be found throughout Southeast Asia. Starting from as little as 10 gallons, you can house a baby snake. After about a year, you can increase the enclosure’s size. Reptile cages of different types, such as glass aquariums, snake racks, or plastic molded-type cages, work well. Young animals should be housed in cages that are at least 30″ by 12″ inches long (such as the Zilla critter cage 20 Long) or in an enclosure designed for adults.
Unlike most snakes of similar size, adult Blue Beauties tend to require a larger enclosure. It is good to have at least a 4′ x 2′ but something larger would be even better.
A humid hide would be the perfect addition to a glass tank – a hide with some damp moss in it to provide extra humidity. If a snake has hidden on the cool and warm sides of its enclosure, it will feel more secure.
It’s important to supply branches or driftwood to climb on inside your tank since Blue Beauty snakes are good climbers. Leaves, or another type of protection, should also be provided. Not all wood should be left bare. For the purpose of mimicking tree foliage, plastic plants can be zip-tied to wood pieces. Please make sure that the ties are securely fastened to the wood, without gaps. This will prevent your snake from getting entangled.
Their escape skills are impressive. To prevent them from escaping, make sure your top is clipped or locked to the tank.
Lighting and Heat
Due to their native Southeast Asian origins, Blue Beauty snakes prefer warm weather. It is important that they are able to cool off if they wish. For controlling their body temperature, they are dependent on external thermoregulation just like all reptiles. The cool side of your enclosure needs to be kept cool, but the hot side needs to be hot. One side of the device should have all of the heat elements, and the other should be the cool side. Depending on its needs, your snake can move between the different temperatures.
If you’d like to bask on the hot side, the temperature should be 85-88 degrees. Have one hide on the hot side and the other on the cool side. 75-80 degrees is the ideal temperature for the cool side. The temperature can drop to 72 degrees at night. Also, using an under-tank heat pad and a basking light is a good idea. Generally, heat pads are placed on the hot side and a hide is placed over them.
You may breed a male and a female if you keep them together. In the case of healthy animals and good conditions, this will happen naturally, without any prompting from you. This is something you need to consider.
To lay their eggs, gravid females should have access to nesting boxes. There needs to be enough room inside the box for her to turn around completely.
Incubation should take place at 84 degrees Fahrenheit in an incubator. The humidity is trapped in incubation boxes with moisture-rich substrates (such as Hatchrite) to incubate eggs. It will take 60 days for the eggs to start hatching, and the first baby to emerge will encourage the remaining eggs to hatch.
Diet & Water
Breeders recommend feeding Blue Beauty snakes on defrosted pinky mice as hatchlings until they reach adulthood when they are fed on larger size food. In adults, rat snakes can be fed twice a month since they can become overweight if fed every week.
Check out this post to know about the snakes which don’t eat mice or rodents.
It is important to use a water bowl large enough for the snake to get into, as long as it does not raise the vivarium humidity too high.
Beauty snakes need regular handling to stay tame, and they are curious fast-moving snakes. In my experience, mine anchor themselves with the tail around my arm or wrist and then explore with the rest of their bodies. Because they will happily wander off to unknown destinations, you need to keep an eye on them. Other than that, do your best to keep them supported and gently handled. Returning a snake to its enclosure is easier when the head is pointed into the hide and eased in that way. The other end won’t come out just as you are getting the first end back in.
Signs of a Healthy Blue Beauty Snakes
A snake is a very simple animal to keep as a pet, which makes them a very desirable pet for reptile owners. In the eyes of many people, they are a plus because they require little handling, feeding, and general care.
Snakes make great pets because they are very robust and healthy. However, like all animals, they are susceptible to many common health problems, even if they are kept in optimal conditions.
Keep in mind that snake husbandry, along with the overall care, will vary depending on which snake species you have, so you should ensure that you are familiar with the husbandry for that particular species. The best way to prevent health concerns is through proper husbandry and care, even if it doesn’t eliminate them completely.
First, you’ll want to be aware of the signs of a healthy Blue Beauty snake, which include:
- Eyes as clear as crystal
- Mouth and nose free of discharge
- The body is rounded and full
- Alertness and activity
- Maintain a regular eating schedule
- Healthy skin
Some Common Health Problems of Blue Beauty Snakes
- Rubbed or wrinkled skin
- Nasal or oral discharge
- Urine or feces that are abnormal
- Decrease in appetite
Here are the common illnesses of Blue Beauty Snakes
In general, abscesses are caused by bacteria invading a previous injury. Abscesses typically appear as lumps that protrude from underneath the skin and sometimes extend into the internal organs. A large number of people confuse abscesses with tumors, unlaid eggs, and constipation. Veterinarians are the best people to determine if the lump is truly an abscess. Let the veterinarian treat it if it is, which usually involves draining the abscess and cleaning and dressing the wound at least once. Antibiotics may also be given by the veterinarian to treat the abscess.
Proper husbandry can prevent blister disease. If a blue beauty snake is kept in a dirty or moldy environment, fluid-filled blisters usually form on the underside. It is common for a few blisters to appear at first, but then they quickly multiply and may become life-threatening, especially if they spread near the mouth, nose, or cloaca.
Preventing blister disease is the best treatment. Cleanse and dry the substrate. Clean any feces or urine. Make sure the bedding is changed often.
The fluid in one or two blisters can be absorbed by piercing the blister with a sterilized needle and using a cotton swab or a bandage. If there are blisters, apply an antibiotic ointment twice a day, and swab the blisters with betadine and hydrogen peroxide. If the blue beauty snake has blisters, it should be quarantined in a tank on paper towels until it has healed.
The more blisters there are and the more sensitive the area, the sooner you should consult a veterinarian.
When you notice that your blue beauty snake’s defecation schedule is all off, it may indicate constipation. It depends on the size and metabolism rate of your snake. Snakes with constipation may be bloated, lethargic, and have decreased appetites. Verify that you have not missed anything by thoroughly inspecting the cage. The snake should be soaked in warm water each day for about 15 minutes if there are no feces in the enclosure. Usually, warm water will stimulate excretion; however, if your snake isn’t excreting, and it looks like it’s swelling, examine it.
Cuts and Abrasions
The same treatment should be used on yourself as well as the snake. Make sure the wound is kept clean, and dab it with antibiotic ointment once a day until it has healed. Although it may be difficult, you can try bandaging the snake with a waterproof bandage. A bandage is not always necessary. In a quarantine tank, cover the snake’s wound with paper towels so that nothing can irritate it.
Inclusion Body Disease
The most common disease among captive blue beauty snakes is probably IBD. Among the many signs you should watch for are neurological disorders (like not reversing when lying flat on its back, stargazing, regurgitation, asymmetrical pupil dilation, and paralysis), tumors, and other medical conditions. You should isolate your blue beauty snake as soon as possible if you suspect it has IBD and contact a reptile vet as soon as possible. In order to prevent the disease from spreading to other snakes, you need to quarantine the snake away from other snakes, and either bleach the enclosure or discard it. Snakes should be quarantined for at least 90 days for many reasons, including this illness.
A wild animal’s internal parasites are usually present. Blue Beauty snakes can acquire internal parasites from their prey and contact infected reptiles. Because of this, new individuals should be quarantined. Internal parasites may also lead to regurgitation, feeling unwell, and an insufficient appetite. When in doubt, obtain a fecal sample from your snake. He may prescribe an over-the-counter worm treatment for pets or recommend prescription medication, depending on your pet’s condition. If you intend to use any over-the-counter products, be sure to consult a reptile veterinarian first.
The majority of respiratory illnesses can be prevented by maintaining a clean, warm, stress-free environment, as well as adhering to proper husbandry requirements. But if you exhibit symptoms of coughing, wheezing, runny nose, clicking noises when breathing, and lethargy, you might be suffering from a respiratory illness. It is imperative to raise the temperature in the enclosure as soon as possible to stimulate the proper immune response. The snake should also be moved to a quiet space away from other snakes or reptiles and kept in a quarantine enclosure with paper towels. The snake can recover from a minor infection or illness on its own, but if the condition worsens, you should consult your vet.